Andalucia 2022 (6/9) – Malaga: Bonus Content Day

1. Introduction
2. Sevilla: Cool Before Dorne Was Cool
3. Ceuta & Algeciras: Day Trip to Africa
4. Cordoba: Capital of a Caliphate
5. Granada: Memories of a K-Drama
6. Malaga: Bonus Content Day
7. Stuff We Ate
8. Stuff We Drank
9. Uncategorized Thoughts

We learned about Malaga for the first time when search results showed it as the only airport in the region with a reasonably-priced return flight for our trip. Well, sure, we didn’t mind hitting up another city, but there wasn’t gonna be much more to it. Especially since the last day before going home was supposed to involve COVID testing – and possibly re-testing or scrambling for backup travel plans – we mentally reserved our entire 24 hours in this city as a logistical buffer.

It was a good thing that we did pencil in a few points of interest, for the waiver of testing requirements meant that we could actually relax and enjoy this city to the fullest extent. So we dropped the bags off at the hotel mid-morning and headed out for the last day of our adventure.

Malaga was quite a modern city. While it did have relics from the Moorish era similar to Sevilla, Cordoba, and Granada, the neighborhoods around them had been rebuilt with wider roads and larger buildings. The multi-story downtown buildings sported an architectural style reminiscent of Paris. There also seemed to be quite a bit of English being used here. It was perfect as our last stop of the trip, where we transitioned back into the convenience of an international gateway.

Mercado Central de Atarazanas

The central market was a few blocks directly north of our hotel, and a logical first stop for a late morning snack. It didn’t leave much of an impression except for being on the touristy side, with us seeing more pre-packaged fruit cups and juices than fresh produce. Those did look good, though, and we picked up a few. Very soon we were running out of hands to hold plastic cups and were in need for a place to eat them.

I spotted some tables and chairs outside and led the family over, assuming it was the market’s communal seating. Gloria saw it for what it was… outdoor seating for an eatery at the market. Thus, when a waiter magically popped up at our table, I was completely confused but she was ready to order an obligatory small dish. An octopus tentacle, then, was an obvious choice. But the slick waiter started upselling and we ended up with an extra whole sea bass. We rarely ate whole fish, let alone as a side dish at a second breakfast. It was hilarious how far we let our guard down and agreed to this obvious tourist trap. As we waited for the food, we watched the same waiter smooth-talk his way around other tables, frequently pushing for the seafood combo platter served in a baby bathtub. I also noticed the chalkboard menu, entirely in English and without pricing. That made me rather nervous. Thankfully, the meal turned out reasonably priced and the food was delicious. Hmm maybe we should have gone for the platter.

Alcazaba & Castillo de Gibralfaro

A short walk from our hotel and adjacent to a Roman amphitheater was the Alcazaba of Malaga, a fortified citadel built during the taifa period of Al-Andalus. Up the hill on Mount Gibralfaro was the Castillo, a fortress built by the Caliphate of Cordoba and then Emirate of Granada. While technically two separate fortifications, because of the 700-year-old double-walled corridor connecting them, they appeared to be a large single structure.

By this point of the trip we had seen plenty of thousand-year-old Moorish castle-palaces, so this less famous version was a highly optional stop. These castles understood their place in comparison to other Andalucian attractions, too, charging only a nominal admission and offering significant discount for visiting both.

Since we were still waiting for the hotel room to become available, we went ahead to see both. Admittedly, it was a little like visiting the Queens Zoo after having been to the Bronx Zoo, but these castles made up for their lack of grandness and intricacy with fewer tourists and less restrictions. Whereas the Alcazar and the Alhambra both had larger courtyards and prettier reflection pools, the versions here were not roped off and we were able to more intuitively move around and appreciate the complex from different angles.

The hike up Mount Gibralfaro, though, was a bit tricky in the afternoon sun.

Downtown

We spent the rest of the day around Calle Marques de Larios, the high-end downtown shopping district that didn’t look too different from any other rich global city. Had a great time.

One thing that stood out to me looking down from Gibralfaro was how massive the cathedral was. The Cathedral of Malaga wasn’t particularly notable among cathedrals, but still stood far taller and wider than even the largest modern building in the city. Thinking back, this was typical of many European cities we had been to. It was particularly striking to compare these church buildings to castles and royal palaces, because in just about every case I can think of, the former was much larger than the latter. I imagined the kings and queens of the past looking up and finding their throne in the shadows of the church… physically and perhaps also metaphorically.

Hotel

ICON Malabar was a new and stylish hotel. It was nice, though our room was on the small side and was slightly below street level.

Airport

For a small-ish airport serving mostly regional flights, the Malaga-Costa del Sol Airport blew us away. It was busy, lively, and filled with cool stuff. The centrally located food court was top notch, and we enjoyed some pasta and pastries here. Later on we regretted that decision when we realized how much nicer Sala VIP (a Priority Pass lounge) was. It was the best airport lounge we had been to in a few years. It was clean, spacious, comfortable, and well stocked with lots of food and drink options.