Exploring Italy 7/8 – Genoa

1 – Introduction
2 – Food
3 – Hotels
4 – Public Transportation
5 – Attractions of Venice
6 – Venice
7 – Genoa
8 – Milan

 

italy7_00
Our walking map of Genoa

Genoa is among the lesser-known Italian cities.  I had never heard of it prior to planning for this trip, and many of my well-traveled friends didn’t know where it was, either.  However, Genoa was an important city-state in the European history.

For hundreds of years, Genoa was a naval powers that dominated the Mediterranean and rivaled Venice.  It was among the pioneers of slave trade.  It introduced to Europe, from its trading post in Asia, the disease Black Death that quickly wiped out half of Europeans.  It was also home to Christopher Columbus, the dude credited for finding the New World.

Contrary to Venice, though, this was a rather quiet port city with few tourists.

italy7_01
Via Balbi, a main street in Genoa, had only a single lane

italy7_02
A neat tunnel with fancy buildings on top

italy7_03
Via Cairoli

italy7_04
Via Garibaldi, named after the general that unified Italy, is at the heart of Genoa where some of the city’s wealthiest people lived

italy7_05
One of the “palaces” on Via Garibaldi

italy7_17
Ting helping me plan out the walking paths

 

Mountain City

Genoa is a mountain city by the sea, with plenty of hills, stairs, and elevators.  Getting up to the residential neighborhoods can be quite hard if you don’t know your options, but once there the view can be breathtaking.

italy7_06
View from Spianata Castelletto

italy7_07
View from Spianata Castelletto

italy7_08
Albergo dei Poveri

italy7_09
Selfie from the hill

 

Ferrari Plaza

I was eager to find out which Ferrari Genoa’s central plaza was named after, but there was close to zero information online.  There was no super car here.

italy7_10
Building at Piazza de Ferrari

italy7_11
Fountain in the center of the plaza

Near the plaza were some impressive historic ruins.  It was pretty clear that, unlike Venice, there was little thought here of preserving the cool stuff and presenting them to attract tourists.  It reminded me a lot of Taipei where bits and pieces of history were randomly scattered throughout the city.

italy7_14
Remains of old city wall and gate

italy7_15
House of Christopher Columbus

italy7_16
Backyard (?) of Christopher Columbus

 

Baltimore of Italy

I thought that Genoa was a lot like Baltimore: (1) it’s a major sea port (Italy’s largest); (2) it’s got a trendy water front where the majority of visitors congregate; (3) at the water front, among tourist traps, is an impressive aquarium (Europe’s largest); (4) neighborhoods can get rough quickly once you leave this area.

Because Hong and I are big aquarium and zoo enthusiasts, part of our reason for visiting Genoa was to check out Europe’s largest aquarium.

italy7_12
Compared to its peers in the U.S. and Asia, this aquarium doesn’t sell itself that well on the exterior

italy7_13
Ting being really into some tropical fish

Hong and I enjoyed the aquarium. It was fun and educational.  Aside from a huge dolphin tank, though, there wasn’t any exhibit or creature that stood out as extraordinary.  Ironically, while these establishments generally target young folks, our kids were far less into it than we were.

 

The Gritty City

Travel guides described Genoa as gritty, and I learned the meaning of the word by walking through this city.  Many parts of it, just steps away from the main touristy landmarks, were visibly poor, run-down, and dirty.  Dog poop on the sidewalks was not uncommon.  We took one wrong turn and walked through a few blocks reminiscent of Spanish Harlem.  Overall probably still quite safe (petty crimes against tourists were supposedly far lower than Milan and Venice), although it did feel uncomfortable at times.

italy7_18
A neat walking path up a really beat up residential neighborhood

italy7_19
A side street by Ferrari Plaza where many restaurants were (but not open)

italy7_20
Major graffiti on a major street

italy7_21
More graffiti

italy7_22
The police tortures immigrants?  This was written in more than one place, so it must be true

italy7_23
Graffiti in English

 

Random…

There was a restaurant/bar named MADAI.  No idea what it served or whether it was good, but Ma Dai happens to also be the name of a Chinese general in the Three Kingdoms era.  Dynasty Warriors, the game, added the character Ma Dai in the recent versions.  His costume design is so funky and un-Asian, that we had always jokingly called him Christopher Columbus.  Guess what?  Genoa happens to be home to Christopher Columbus… Coincidence?

italy7_24
Restaurant Ma Dai

italy7_25
Ma Dai from Dynasty Warriors

 

I really enjoyed Genoa, and struggled in my head whether I prefer it over Venice.  It wasn’t as clean, amusement-park-like, or tourist friendly.  However, it’s got a comparable amount of rich history, and its authenticity plus unique landscape was fascinating.  I am glad to have been to Genoa and would definitely recommend a visit.

 

2 Comments

Post a Comment